Door Locks (Part 2)

The door locks are pretty much just a standard 90 degree turn to open cam lock, with a 5 pin wafer lock cylinder that has a square drive threaded interface to the cam bar itself.

The length of the threaded portion of the lock is roughly 5/8".

The diameter of the threaded portion is designed for a 3/4" hole. 

 

With an overall diameter of the bezel being around 7/8".

The cam interface is a square drive and is retained by a screw. The cylinder itself is retained via the clip shown below.

One of the more distinguishable aspects of this lock is that the 90 degree rotation is constrained by the housing itself in combination with the cylinder. Here you can see the two slots at 0 and 90 degrees. (sorry for the terminology, I am obviously not a locksmith).

Also, if you look at the face of the housing above you will see two dogs at 11 and 1. Those limit the rotation and interface with the cylinder itself. (look at the dog just above the silver cover)

The wafers are a little different. I don't know exactly what they are, but I ordered a couple of different wafer styles so I can re-key the lock. These almost look more like a Toyota style wafer than they do the normal universal wafers for cam locks. I was able to take the wafers out of a CCL cam lock and put them into this cylinder and they worked. Rather than mess too much with it before the my wafer kits arrive, all I did was take all the wafers out of the two new door locks I ordered, and re-arranged three out of the five wafers to match my ignition key (minus 2 wafers). This is good enough for the time being, but I will make a new part three post when my new wafers arrive.

Door Locks (Part 1)

My door lock saga starts with Aircraft Spruce and the initial ordering of my locks. When I was finishing up my doors I ended up ordering both a combo ignition switch with two door locks as well as two additional locks. The theory was that I would key both of the doors with the same key and both the baggage door and ignition switch with another key. Not that these keys stop anything but it is always nice to be able to have the option of giving someone a key that will let them into the plane but not start it.


Roll forward a year, and the plane is for the most part together. Post installation I never really used the locks as the plane is just sitting in the hangar. At this point though I had installed the Aerosport Products Baggage Door. One of the things that is partly nice, and partly really annoying about actually using the door strut is that you have to use the door lock to keep the door shut... (The default resting position of the door with the strut attached is wide open.) After looking around in one of the thousand places I would put the keys, I finally found them. When I went to try them though, they did not turn in the baggage door lock. One of my keys works perfectly fine the the ignition, one works perfectly fine in the doors, but the baggage door just does not turn. It feels like it wants to, but it just doesn't.



Long story short. I call Aircraft Spruce thinking I will order a new key. I thought about that though for a bit, and that may or may not solve the problem. Instead, I ask to PURCHASE a new lock to match my key that I know works in the ignition. That way I am assured that I have a good cylinder and even a spare. Not a big deal. These things are 50 dollars, so it is a little annoying because we are talking about probably a 7 dollar cam lock, but whatever. Now mind you, there are absolutely no markings on these locks. Nothing on the key under the boot, nothing on the lock. These have 0 identification markings.

The issue is that a week later I get a call from Aircraft Spruce that is a drop ship item from the vendor (which I had already discussed with them). Not that big of a deal because it was just a 15 dollar charge on top of the 49 dollar locks. Again, annoying, but in the grand scheme of things not horrible. Until a week later ACS called me again and said that the vendor had to special make this and it was not going to be $150 dollars just for the shipping.  Now we are to the point where I am annoyed. We are talking about a basic cam lock. Not even a good one. This is more a less a lock you would use to lock a cabinet door. In fact it is probably exactly that from one of those vendors, just without markings.

 

If you read the details about the locks themselves, these are "Made in America." That is great, I love stuff made in America. Actually I go out of my way to purchase things made in a America. I am not sure what part of America though it costs $150 to ship 2 door locks to Virginia, but I am assuming they hired an olympic swimmer in Hawaii to cross the ocean with my locks in tow. 

So begins my series on what is inside an ACS lock, what other types of cam locks are out there and suitable, and how to re-wafer these locks by yourself so we as a community do not continue this behavior.

Registration

The time has finally arrived to start getting the plane ready from a paperwork standpoint. This week I began the registration process. Well, in reality, I started this process about a month and a half ago, but one of the required documents (8050-2 Bill of Sale) on a kit plane requires a signature from Vans aircraft. With COVID-19 in full swing, it took a couple of weeks to get the required ink signature from the VANS CEO for the bill of sale.



The second thing that took a while was my reserved N-Number. I swear I renewed it, but apparently the tail number that I had reserved (and I thought renewed) was no longer in a reserved status. While not necessary to wait for this to come in, I wanted to ensure that I did have the tail number that I wanted (as I had already laser engraved my panel). This actually took 4 weeks to get through the system.

With the reserved N-Number, a completed 8050-1, a signed 8050-2 from Vans, and a notarized 8050-88 Affidavit of Ownership, I sealed up an envelop and sent it to the FAA. Now we wait.