First Start!

We started with a short checklist to button up all of the loose things on the plane that would probably depart the aircraft once the prop started spinning. I decided to remove the engine baffling as it was still not fully complete at the time of start. i.e. Make sure all the bolts were in the flaps, ailerons, elevator, trim, etc. From there we went straight into the pre-oil procedure. I started that with draining all of preservative oil out of the system, pre-filling the oil cooler directly, pre-filling the oil filter as much as I could, and then adding 8.5 qts directly into the engine itself (for a total of 9.5 qts). With the bottom plugs out I pulled the prop through a number of cycles. I loosened the oil cooler main line and then with everything clear hit the starter for about 8 seconds. We immediately saw a little seepage at the oil cooler fitting. (Note this point of time) From there we tightened the fitting and cranked over the engine again to start building pressure. Within a 5-10 second engine cycle oil pressure built right away. I stopped cranking and watched how fast the pressure dropped, it fell off pretty slowly. After that I cycled the prop for another 5 seconds to bring the pressure up again to make sure oil was getting through the system and air pockets were being minimized.

With the pre-oil complete, we pulled the plane forward onto the ramp. This was great timing because two EAA 186 guys were just walking by and did a secondary sanity check. With everything looking good and a final FOD check of the ramp, I got in, started the AUX and MAIN bus. Waited for the G3X to come online and then gave the plane a 5 second prime (to stable fuel flow). Cleared prop and it fired almost immediately. 

At that point as the engine was coming alive I got the kill sign from Tim. I pulled the mixture back, turned the key off and pulled it out and got out of the plane. I had an oil leak :( Tim pointed out that the fitting that was going to the oil cooler was leaking. Ugh, that is the one that I opened up to bleed the system. I completely remember hand tightening it, getting distracted and not torquing it. A quick clean-up and a tightening of one fitting and on to try two. 

The second fire was about the same. Maybe one second of prime and the engine came to life almost immediately. It ran a little rough for about 10 seconds and then you could hear the remaining cylinders starting to get fuel. About 15 seconds in, and it absolutely purred! With the previous leak, I didn't want to run through my full 3 minute plan to cycle everything. I opted to shut it down once everything was smooth.

Photos:

Oil system pre-oil (Service Instruction No. 1241C) / checklist:

1. Fill the oil tank or sump to the proper level. In all turbocharged engines use only ashless dispersant oil

conforming to specification MIL-L-22851 or SAEJ1899.

2. External oil tanks and turbocharged engines.

    a. On engines with external oil tanks, disconnect the oil inlet connection at the oil pump and drain a sufficient amount of oil to eliminate any possible obstructions or air in the inlet passage. Reinstall

oil inlet connections to the oil pump.

    b. On turbocharged engines, disconnect the inlet lines at the turbocharger and the front lines to the

exhaust valve guide oiler, if applicable. Also disconnect the engine air duct from the compressor

housing inlet. Fill the turbocharger oil inlet port with clean engine oil and manually turn the

compressor wheel several revolutions in both directions to coat all journal and bearing surfaces

with oil. Reconnect the air duct.

3. For wet sump engines, except TIO-541-E series, fill the cooler with oil.

4. Remove one spark plug from each cylinder of the engine.

5. Place the mixture control in idle cut-off and the fuel selector or shut off in the “off” position. If the

engine is not equipped with idle cut-off, open throttle to full open position and put fuel and ignition

switches in “off” position.

6. Turn engine with starter (or external power source, if available) until oil is visible at the end of the oil

lines disconnected in steps 2 and 3. Reconnect the oil lines. Turn engine with starter (or external

power source, if available) until a minimum pressure of 20 lbs. is indicated on the oil pressure gage.

NOTE

If oil pressure is not attained after cranking 10-15 seconds, allow starter to cool.

7. Energize starter for 2 or more 10-15 seconds periods.

CAUTION

DO NOT ENERGIZE STARTER FOR PERIODS OF OVER 10-15 SECONDS. ALLOW

TO COOL AFTER EACH ENERGIZING.

 Lack of pressure build-up or rapid drop-off of pressure is an indication of the presence of air in the line

and the engine is not being pre-oiled. To remedy this, repeat steps 2 and 3 and continue until oil pressure is indicated.

8. The line disconnected in step 2 may be reconnected after the oil pressure is attained and the oil is

flowing from the disconnected lines.

9. Turn the engine with the starter for approximately 10 seconds to check for continued oil pressure.

10. Reinstall spark plugs and proceed with normal starting procedure which should not be later than three

housing after pre-oiling.

11. When engine is started it should be run for about three minutes at approximately 1000 RPM for fixed

wing applications, and idle RPM on helicopters before increasing power for other ground operations

or take-off power.

Fuel system checklist:

1. Check airframe plumbing for secureness.

    a. Tight connections.

    b. No kinked or chaffing plumbing.

    c. Check electrical wiring and electrical connector for boost pump.

    d. Correct circuit breaker for boost pump.

    e. Fuel system plumbing and wiring are free from interfering with full movement of all control surface controls.

2. Flush airframe fuel system plumbing before connecting high-pressure boost pump.

3. Free flow boost pump to insure pick-up of fuel on initial run of boost pump.

4. Check mounting hardware of fuel control, adapters, and brackets. Check lock nuts for correct engagement and torque. Check all screws requiring lock wire to be lock wired. Check Purge Valve stop screw for lock wire.

5. Check control cables for security to mounting brackets.

6. Check control cable rod ends for secured jam nuts and correct locking hardware on the actuating levers.

7. Check for correct engagement of the teeth on control levers.

8. Check operation of the manual mixture control. No binding. Check position to “Full Rich” and “ICO” with operation of the control in the cockpit.

9. Check operation of the throttle control. No binding. Check position to WOT to idle with operation of the control in the cockpit.

10. Check operation of the purge valve. No binding. Check position to “Full Rich” (run) and “ICO” with operation of the control in the cockpit.

11. Check security and clamping of the injector nozzle lines.

12. Check all hose connections in engine compartment. Fire sleeved hose, hoses tied off to prevent chaffing and away from exhaust system.

13. Injector nozzles installed with restrictors. Nozzle lines torqued at both ends.

14. Check air box installation. Check operation of alternate air valve if installed.

15. Pressure test fuel system. Purge valve in the ICO position