Something I have been putting off for far too long... When I put my panel in I ended up putting some switches and breakers into the standard location that the Aerosport panel has designed. That looks really nice, but after finally having everything rigged, the control stick would contact the switches prior to the stops in the control surfaces making contact. The internet is very helpful as everyone else that has installed the panel has also had a similar issue. (although it sounds like a lot of people just fly like that)
A lot of the solutions involved heating, bending, cutting, welding. So with all of that, I decided to wait in the process to when I had things close to final rig to ensure I knew exactly how much additional clearance I needed. I also ordered two new control sticks as I was assuming it was going to take a couple of different tries in order to get it where I wanted.
I started with taking my existing control sticks out. I was about to cut them to weld some DOM tube extension but before I went down that path I figured I would just bend them a little to see how things looked. You do not want to bring the stick much more aft as it is already in your lap on full nose up. Also, you don't want to make a bend too low in the stick because (with my short legs) the stick will contact the seat cushion.
With that, I grabbed a pipe bender from the place I most hate (harbor freight) and with the 1/2" mandrel bent the control stick 5 pumps at a time as high as I could. On the first 5 pumps I could see that it was having a significant impact. By the time I got to 10, the control stick with my custom grips was no longer contacting the switches by itself, but with my hand on the stick I could see myself accidentally flipping all of the switches off on a controls pre-flight check. With 15 pumps on the press you can see how much movement I got (and where I got it).
At this point I was still thinking I was going to use the control stick as a template and move on to bending the new sticks, but I went ahead and installed them into the plane and everything fit very nicely. I am 5'7" and with the seat all the way forward in the forward most notch of seat adjustment (not where I fly, but the worst case for clearance) the stick came back full nose up and fit very nicely in my lap. I definitely hit the elevator stops before my body. (but I am also 150lbs). With both of the originals bent identically I called it a day as I was not sure I was going to be able to replicate that. Also, the original sticks were match drilled for the control stick horns, and I figured it would be difficult to re-drill the new sticks without enlarging that holes in that part.
Up until 2020 I was pretty good about staying current (not just legally current but comfortable current). When COVID hit airplane rentals became a little problematic. As things started opening back up I found myself needing a new medical, a flight review, and I needed to re-gain currency. On top of that I had been flying a 172 for the last 5 years so it was time to change that.
In June I started everything back up. I renewed my medical (last 5 year one for me), formally transitioned into the Cirrus, got back my currency, and started IFR training. I am enjoying the 300hp low wing and so is the family!
We will miss the A/C when we transition over into the RV-10, but it has been a great experience.
Prior to the first start I had already cleaned, purged and tested the various aspects of the fuel system from the tanks through the filter and electric fuel pump, up to the fuel divider. I still wanted to run a full fuel flow test though. In fact when I emailed the DAR (not that I was not planning on already doing it) he had mentioned that he would want to see a fuel flow test.
FAA AC 90-89B has some decent information on fuel flow testing. The RV-10 tanks are a pretty known design as is the engine combination, fuel line routing, boost pump, and filter setup. So really the test here is to make sure that the electric boost pump is wired and working correctly, that the flow through the lines is not restricted, that the lines themselves are free of debris, and that we can get the required flow rate out of our boost pump. Ideally I would have tested the "usable fuel" here as well, but Mackenzie was about done with the fuel test by the time we got through all of the essentials.
We started with the the plane in level flight attitude, and checking the various functions of the fuel selector and then ran the fuel flow test both on the left and the right tank. I purchased a nice fuel funnel from Aircraft Spruce that had both a water separator as well as a filter, so I ended up re-using the fuel for this test. From there we put the plane in the nose up pitch as far as we could (basically until the rear tie down was just off of the ground).
Tests one and two we ran for 60 seconds for each tank. I will be honest, I did not get overly exact about measuring after we passed 4 qts in under well under 60 seconds. Regardless, the first test was over +67 gallons per hour (with the fuel being taken from the line at the input of the fuel servo). The second test was about +68 gallons per hour. I would say that the flow was probably a little more than that calculation, but my container was only 5 qts and I didn't want to make a mess. I opted not to go the other way around and have Mackenzie stop the timer at the 4 qt marker because I was in fear of the boost pump not coming off in time and there is A LOT of flow on that pump!
In looking through my engine documentation, I didn't see a fuel flow sensor on the max RPM test that was run so I am going to generalize a bit on max fuel flow for 2700 RPM. If we are running at mixture for peak power, the brake specific fuel consumption (BSFC) should be on the order of 0.5 pound/hp per hour, if the engine compression ratio is ~8.7:1. Let's round that up to 0.60 pounds/hour of fuel per each horsepower (even though our 9.0 compression ration should actually keep that number closer to 0.5). Avgas weighs about 6 pounds/gallon, so we would expect about 10 hp for every one gph of fuel flow. Take our Thunderbolt IO-540 engine rated at 295hp, we would get 29.5 gallons per hour (loosely).
The rule of thumb here is that in our low wing electric boost pump enabled system we need about 125% of our max flow to be pushing through our line, so 36.9gph. I realize that I did not bring the line up to the spider, but our 68 gph is more than enough to meet our safety factor.
We started with a short checklist to button up all of the loose things on the plane that would probably depart the aircraft once the prop started spinning. I decided to remove the engine baffling as it was still not fully complete at the time of start. i.e. Make sure all the bolts were in the flaps, ailerons, elevator, trim, etc. From there we went straight into the pre-oil procedure. I started that with draining all of preservative oil out of the system, pre-filling the oil cooler directly, pre-filling the oil filter as much as I could, and then adding 8.5 qts directly into the engine itself (for a total of 9.5 qts). With the bottom plugs out I pulled the prop through a number of cycles. I loosened the oil cooler main line and then with everything clear hit the starter for about 8 seconds. We immediately saw a little seepage at the oil cooler fitting. (Note this point of time) From there we tightened the fitting and cranked over the engine again to start building pressure. Within a 5-10 second engine cycle oil pressure built right away. I stopped cranking and watched how fast the pressure dropped, it fell off pretty slowly. After that I cycled the prop for another 5 seconds to bring the pressure up again to make sure oil was getting through the system and air pockets were being minimized.
With the pre-oil complete, we pulled the plane forward onto the ramp. This was great timing because two EAA 186 guys were just walking by and did a secondary sanity check. With everything looking good and a final FOD check of the ramp, I got in, started the AUX and MAIN bus. Waited for the G3X to come online and then gave the plane a 5 second prime (to stable fuel flow). Cleared prop and it fired almost immediately.
At that point as the engine was coming alive I got the kill sign from Tim. I pulled the mixture back, turned the key off and pulled it out and got out of the plane. I had an oil leak :( Tim pointed out that the fitting that was going to the oil cooler was leaking. Ugh, that is the one that I opened up to bleed the system. I completely remember hand tightening it, getting distracted and not torquing it. A quick clean-up and a tightening of one fitting and on to try two.
The second fire was about the same. Maybe one second of prime and the engine came to life almost immediately. It ran a little rough for about 10 seconds and then you could hear the remaining cylinders starting to get fuel. About 15 seconds in, and it absolutely purred! With the previous leak, I didn't want to run through my full 3 minute plan to cycle everything. I opted to shut it down once everything was smooth.
Photos:
Oil system pre-oil (Service Instruction No. 1241C) / checklist:
1. Fill the oil tank or sump to the proper level. In all turbocharged engines use only ashless dispersant oil
conforming to specification MIL-L-22851 or SAEJ1899.
2. External oil tanks and turbocharged engines.
a. On engines with external oil tanks, disconnect the oil inlet connection at the oil pump and drain a sufficient amount of oil to eliminate any possible obstructions or air in the inlet passage. Reinstall
oil inlet connections to the oil pump.
b. On turbocharged engines, disconnect the inlet lines at the turbocharger and the front lines to the
exhaust valve guide oiler, if applicable. Also disconnect the engine air duct from the compressor
housing inlet. Fill the turbocharger oil inlet port with clean engine oil and manually turn the
compressor wheel several revolutions in both directions to coat all journal and bearing surfaces
with oil. Reconnect the air duct.
3. For wet sump engines, except TIO-541-E series, fill the cooler with oil.
4. Remove one spark plug from each cylinder of the engine.
5. Place the mixture control in idle cut-off and the fuel selector or shut off in the “off” position. If the
engine is not equipped with idle cut-off, open throttle to full open position and put fuel and ignition
switches in “off” position.
6. Turn engine with starter (or external power source, if available) until oil is visible at the end of the oil
lines disconnected in steps 2 and 3. Reconnect the oil lines. Turn engine with starter (or external
power source, if available) until a minimum pressure of 20 lbs. is indicated on the oil pressure gage.
NOTE
If oil pressure is not attained after cranking 10-15 seconds, allow starter to cool.
7. Energize starter for 2 or more 10-15 seconds periods.
CAUTION
DO NOT ENERGIZE STARTER FOR PERIODS OF OVER 10-15 SECONDS. ALLOW
TO COOL AFTER EACH ENERGIZING.
Lack of pressure build-up or rapid drop-off of pressure is an indication of the presence of air in the line
and the engine is not being pre-oiled. To remedy this, repeat steps 2 and 3 and continue until oil pressure is indicated.
8. The line disconnected in step 2 may be reconnected after the oil pressure is attained and the oil is
flowing from the disconnected lines.
9. Turn the engine with the starter for approximately 10 seconds to check for continued oil pressure.
10. Reinstall spark plugs and proceed with normal starting procedure which should not be later than three
housing after pre-oiling.
11. When engine is started it should be run for about three minutes at approximately 1000 RPM for fixed
wing applications, and idle RPM on helicopters before increasing power for other ground operations
or take-off power.
Fuel system checklist:
1. Check airframe plumbing for secureness.
a. Tight connections.
b. No kinked or chaffing plumbing.
c. Check electrical wiring and electrical connector for boost pump.
d. Correct circuit breaker for boost pump.
e. Fuel system plumbing and wiring are free from interfering with full movement of all control surface controls.
2. Flush airframe fuel system plumbing before connecting high-pressure boost pump.
3. Free flow boost pump to insure pick-up of fuel on initial run of boost pump.
4. Check mounting hardware of fuel control, adapters, and brackets. Check lock nuts for correct engagement and torque. Check all screws requiring lock wire to be lock wired. Check Purge Valve stop screw for lock wire.
5. Check control cables for security to mounting brackets.
6. Check control cable rod ends for secured jam nuts and correct locking hardware on the actuating levers.
7. Check for correct engagement of the teeth on control levers.
8. Check operation of the manual mixture control. No binding. Check position to “Full Rich” and “ICO” with operation of the control in the cockpit.
9. Check operation of the throttle control. No binding. Check position to WOT to idle with operation of the control in the cockpit.
10. Check operation of the purge valve. No binding. Check position to “Full Rich” (run) and “ICO” with operation of the control in the cockpit.
11. Check security and clamping of the injector nozzle lines.
12. Check all hose connections in engine compartment. Fire sleeved hose, hoses tied off to prevent chaffing and away from exhaust system.
13. Injector nozzles installed with restrictors. Nozzle lines torqued at both ends.
14. Check air box installation. Check operation of alternate air valve if installed.
15. Pressure test fuel system. Purge valve in the ICO position
The door locks are pretty much just a standard 90 degree turn to open cam lock, with a 5 pin wafer lock cylinder that has a square drive threaded interface to the cam bar itself.
The length of the threaded portion of the lock is roughly 5/8".
The diameter of the threaded portion is designed for a 3/4" hole.
With an overall diameter of the bezel being around 7/8".
The cam interface is a square drive and is retained by a screw. The cylinder itself is retained via the clip shown below.
One of the more distinguishable aspects of this lock is that the 90 degree rotation is constrained by the housing itself in combination with the cylinder. Here you can see the two slots at 0 and 90 degrees. (sorry for the terminology, I am obviously not a locksmith).
Also, if you look at the face of the housing above you will see two dogs at 11 and 1. Those limit the rotation and interface with the cylinder itself. (look at the dog just above the silver cover)
The wafers are a little different. I don't know exactly what they are, but I ordered a couple of different wafer styles so I can re-key the lock. These almost look more like a Toyota style wafer than they do the normal universal wafers for cam locks. I was able to take the wafers out of a CCL cam lock and put them into this cylinder and they worked. Rather than mess too much with it before the my wafer kits arrive, all I did was take all the wafers out of the two new door locks I ordered, and re-arranged three out of the five wafers to match my ignition key (minus 2 wafers). This is good enough for the time being, but I will make a new part three post when my new wafers arrive.
My door lock saga starts with Aircraft Spruce and the initial ordering of my locks. When I was finishing up my doors I ended up ordering both a combo ignition switch with two door locks as well as two additional locks. The theory was that I would key both of the doors with the same key and both the baggage door and ignition switch with another key. Not that these keys stop anything but it is always nice to be able to have the option of giving someone a key that will let them into the plane but not start it.
Roll forward a year, and the plane is for the most part together. Post installation I never really used the locks as the plane is just sitting in the hangar. At this point though I had installed the Aerosport Products Baggage Door. One of the things that is partly nice, and partly really annoying about actually using the door strut is that you have to use the door lock to keep the door shut... (The default resting position of the door with the strut attached is wide open.) After looking around in one of the thousand places I would put the keys, I finally found them. When I went to try them though, they did not turn in the baggage door lock. One of my keys works perfectly fine the the ignition, one works perfectly fine in the doors, but the baggage door just does not turn. It feels like it wants to, but it just doesn't.
Long story short. I call Aircraft Spruce thinking I will order a new key. I thought about that though for a bit, and that may or may not solve the problem. Instead, I ask to PURCHASE a new lock to match my key that I know works in the ignition. That way I am assured that I have a good cylinder and even a spare. Not a big deal. These things are 50 dollars, so it is a little annoying because we are talking about probably a 7 dollar cam lock, but whatever. Now mind you, there are absolutely no markings on these locks. Nothing on the key under the boot, nothing on the lock. These have 0 identification markings.
The issue is that a week later I get a call from Aircraft Spruce that is a drop ship item from the vendor (which I had already discussed with them). Not that big of a deal because it was just a 15 dollar charge on top of the 49 dollar locks. Again, annoying, but in the grand scheme of things not horrible. Until a week later ACS called me again and said that the vendor had to special make this and it was not going to be $150 dollars just for the shipping. Now we are to the point where I am annoyed. We are talking about a basic cam lock. Not even a good one. This is more a less a lock you would use to lock a cabinet door. In fact it is probably exactly that from one of those vendors, just without markings.
If you read the details about the locks themselves, these are "Made in America." That is great, I love stuff made in America. Actually I go out of my way to purchase things made in a America. I am not sure what part of America though it costs $150 to ship 2 door locks to Virginia, but I am assuming they hired an olympic swimmer in Hawaii to cross the ocean with my locks in tow.
So begins my series on what is inside an ACS lock, what other types of cam locks are out there and suitable, and how to re-wafer these locks by yourself so we as a community do not continue this behavior.
The time has finally arrived to start getting the plane ready from a paperwork standpoint. This week I began the registration process. Well, in reality, I started this process about a month and a half ago, but one of the required documents (8050-2 Bill of Sale) on a kit plane requires a signature from Vans aircraft. With COVID-19 in full swing, it took a couple of weeks to get the required ink signature from the VANS CEO for the bill of sale.
The second thing that took a while was my reserved N-Number. I swear I renewed it, but apparently the tail number that I had reserved (and I thought renewed) was no longer in a reserved status. While not necessary to wait for this to come in, I wanted to ensure that I did have the tail number that I wanted (as I had already laser engraved my panel). This actually took 4 weeks to get through the system.
With the reserved N-Number, a completed 8050-1, a signed 8050-2 from Vans, and a notarized 8050-88 Affidavit of Ownership, I sealed up an envelop and sent it to the FAA. Now we wait.
